The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

As I wrote, we’re taking the four days/three nights 26-mile Inca Trail to Machu Picchu hiking tour with the Llama Path tour company. Our journey starts in Cuzco. We arrive in the city on June 7 after three nights at Refugio Amazonas on the Tambopata River. We’ll spend the next two and a half days acclimating to the altitude. Our only responsibilities in Cuzco are 1) to show up at the tour company to check in, 2) to show up for the pre-trip meeting on Saturday night, and 3) to acclimate to the altitude.

On Sunday, June 10, the Machu Picchu trip starts when we meet the tour guides and other hike companions at 5:00 a.m. in the Regocijo Square in Cuzco. We’ll board a bus for the ride to Piskacucho where the trail starts, with a stop for breakfast in Ollantaytambo along the way. 

The Basics for the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Starting Altitude: 8,920 ft
Altitude at Machu Picchu: 7,780 ft
Highest Altitude: 13,780 ft (day two)
Elevation Gain: 4,860 ft
Elevation Loss: 6,000 ft
Lowest Campsite: 8956 ft. (day 3)
Length: 26 miles
Longest Day: 9.5 miles (day two)
Coldest Night: 32⁰ F

Since South America is in the Southern hemisphere, it’ll be winter. The dry season starts in April and goes through October. The temperatures will vary from 68⁰ to 32⁰ depending on the time of day and altitude. The days are usually sunny and hot but temperatures drop abruptly after 5-6 p.m. until 7-8 a.m. The coldest night on the trip will be about 32⁰. Luckily we bought new long underwear. Although it’s the dry season, it could be a bit wet on the 3rd or 4th day since it’s in the cloud forest regions.

The average group size for the hikes is about 12; the maximum size is 16 plus 22 porters. The tour provides porters for the tents, food, water and dining tables/chair (yes, chairs). We could have hired a porter to carry our gear but decided not to. Our packs will be between 20 and 35 pounds, depending on much stuff we decide to take. We’ll be carrying our clothes, sleeping bags, sleeping pads and whatever gear we want, including cameras. We both bought trekking poles to help with the climbs so they’ll add to the weight but be very useful and worth it.

The following information was taken from the Tour Company's website.

Day 1: The Start of the Adventure – Inca Flat 

Total Distance: 7.5 miles
Total Time: 5-6 hours
Temperature at night: 41⁰ F (depending on the month)

We will meet and pick you up from the Regocijo square (less than 5 minutes from any hotel in Cusco!) at 5-5:30am and travel by bus to Piskacucho (you will hear this be called kilometer 82) where the trail starts. There will be a breakfast stop in Ollantaytambo at 6:30 a.m. to load up on energy (we buy).

On arrival at kilometer 82 (~8:30 a.m.), we will have some time to organize ourselves (use the restrooms, put on sun cream, mosquitoes repellant, etc) and then it is necessary to show your entrance tickets and passports [Jenn's note: we had to register with our passport numbers to get a permit to hike the Inca Trail].

To start the trail (8923 ft), we cross the Vilcanota River and follow its route to the right. The first day is relatively easy (a warm-up on the “Inca flat” terrain) and we will have great views of the site of an Inca Fortress (Huillca Raccay), the vast and incredible Inca site Llactapata (officially called Patallacta), the Urubamba mountain range that divides the jungle and the Andes and the beautiful snow-capped peak of W'akay Willca, known in books as Veronica. Our first campsite (Ayapata) will be 1 1/2 hours up the small village of Wayllabamba (9842 ft) in the temperate green valley of the same name.

Day 2: The Trail Trial!
We go over 2 passes 

Total Distance: 9.5 miles
Total Time: 8-9 hours
Temperature at Night: 39⁰ F

After waking up at 6 a.m. (maybe at 5 a.m., depending on your Guide) and having breakfast, we will start a steep ascent towards the highest pass (Abra de Warrmihua’usca, known as “Dead Woman's Pass,” at 13,779 ft). On this day a real sense of achievement is felt on reaching the top! After a rest here, we begin the descent to the lunch stop which is located at Pacaymayu (11,646 ft).

On the way up to the pass we will be able to see lots of hummingbirds and other birds. Also we will have the time to appreciate an incredible variety of native plants and trees such as the Polylepis or Q'ueu’a trees which grow in the astonishing cloud forest located at 11,972 ft! After lunch begins the second 2 hours steep climbing to Runkuraqay pass (almost 13,125 feet), we arrive in our campsite at about 5 p.m. 

Day 3: Back in the Past!
Beautiful scenery and a short walk to camp 

Total Distance: 6.2 miles
Total Time: ~5 hours
Temperature at Night: 54⁰ F

This is the most impressive day (in our opinion!!!) so just keep thinking of that on the ascent on day 2! Again we wake up for breakfast at 6 a.m., and start the day with a gentle climb to visit the archaeological site of Phuyupatamarca (meaning “Town in the Clouds”) and to reach the third highest point on the trail (12,073 ft). The views from here of the mountains, canyons and surrounding area are spectacular.

The Inca site, Phuyupatamarca, is located a few minutes’ walk from the third pass and after visiting this, we continue walking (3000 steps!) through the cloud forest and the impressive agricultural Inca site of Intipata until we arrive at our third campsite Wi’ay Wayna (8,792 ft). Today we have only walked about 4 to 5 hours and have arrived to camp by lunch time! A short distance from this campsite is located the Inca site of the same name Wi’ay Wayna (“Forever Young”). Even if you are tired after your day’s trek, don’t miss out on visiting the most impressive site on the trail. 

Day 4: Machu Picchu in its Glory! 

Total Distance: 3.1 miles
Total Time: ~2 hours

We leave the last campsite at about 5 a.m. on the final day, with breakfast at 4:30 or 5 a.m. It is an early start in order to get to Inti Punku (“Sun gate”) at 8,792 ft before sunrise. This is the place from where you will have your first dramatic view of Machu Picchu (7,873 ft) with the sun rising over it! After some time there, we will walk down the last part of the trail to the spot where you can take the classic photo (picture postcard shot) of this ancient city.

Finally we visit Machu Picchu itself! A walking tour (approximately 2 hours) is given by your guide and after this you can explore the mysterious city by yourselves.

If you still have energy you can also climb Huayna Picchu (8,923ft)!!! It takes 45 minutes to reach the top, this walk is extra/optional and you might need to skip the Machu Picchu tour to be able to get a permit to climb this mountain. You will meet your guide in Aguas Calientes (it can be reached by bus or on foot) for lunch and to be given your train tickets back to Cusco. Train included in all tours is the Cerrojo backpacker (to Ollantaytambo) and bus to Cusco.

Of course, the itinerary is subject to change depending on time of booking and campsites provided by INC (the institution that runs the Inca Trail).